Pattern: 🌕🌕🌕🌑🌑 (3/5)
Completed Garment: 🌕🌕🌕🌕🌕 (5/5)
View: Shirt view
這次做 Olya 襯衫選的是麻布
Fabric + Notions
This fabric was part of the fabric order that resulted in my Pietra pants (also the pants I’m wearing in these photos, woohoo linen!) For this shirt, I’m using the IL019 linen, which is a lighter weight linen. I pretty much purchased this fabric with the intention of turning it into a breezy beautiful Olya shirt and I finally did it!
The only problem with the fabric, which I guess is also what makes the final product so nice, is that it was SO shifty. I had multiple pieces, that is the back piece and she sleeve/front yoke piece turn out slightly smaller than intended. Fortunately in both cases, the improperly sized pieces were both where the pleats were, so I was able to adjust the size of the pleats to get the final seam the right length.
I used pellon fusible interfacing for the placket, collars, and sleeve cuffs. After washing, all of these areas are bubbling. I’ve had this bubbling issue with other projects like my Carolyn Pajamas but I also used the same exact interfacing for my first olya shirt and didn’t have bubbling issues. I looked up on the internet what some potential fixes are and the internet was basically like “use better interfacing”, which is an incredibly unhelpful comment. Anyway, the internet did suggest this interfacing, which I may try out in the future.
Final supplies related notes: I got these buttons when I went to Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics in March. These buttons are so pretty and also quite expensive. They were a dollar each! I cannot believe I paid $9 to get the buttons for this shirt. I will be really sad if a button comes loose and I lose it. But also, I will definitely just take the buttons from the sleeve cuff if that happens because I basically only wear this shirt with the sleeves rolled up.
OK, now onto the construction: I cut out this project the same day I cut out the fabric for my first olya shirt. In hindsight, I probably should’ve finished up the test version and made sure I was happy with the sizing before I cut out the second project.
Despite having made a first version of this shirt, I immediately messed up the sleeve placket in the first step. I sewed the little placket binding pieces on with the incorrect side facing up and noticed after cutting into the sleeve/front yoke fabric (see pics below). Unpicking and then resewing onto the already-cut fabric was a bit precarious but I was super careful and it ended up working out.
Also for this version of the Olya shirt, I sewed the collar on using a different method, following Pam Howard’s craftsy course, but where she has you trim the under collar by 1/8” and then hand sew the collar stand. In the course, she doesn’t tell you to topstitch the collar stand but I decided to top stitch it. This was more or less the same instructions for the McCall’s 7575 shirt.
The sleeves grew a little with all of the handling so I ended up trimming 1 cm from the ends before attaching the cuff. This ended up being perfect because I had also cut the sleeve too narrow, but trimming away 1 cm ended up making the sleeve the perfect width for the pleats and attaching the cuff.
Having made three of these shirts at this point, I have a lot of complaints about the instructions and lack of notches in the pattern. Attaching the back yolk to the front/sleeve was tricky and then getting the side seam and arm hole connection to match up is super annoying.
Despite all my mistakes and complaints about sewing this shirt, I absolutely LOVE this shirt. As with the previous Olya shirt, I find the sleeves to be too wide on me but with the sleeve rolled up it’s perfect. Overall, it’s exactly what you would expect – a perfect white linen shirt. The number of compliments I get wearing my wrinkly linen shirt is a little ridiculous but I’ll take it.
Start date: March 12, 2022
Finish date: April 26, 2022
Pattern: Paper Theory Patterns Olya Shirt
Fabric: IL019 in antique white from the Fabric Store